artLIVE – Hearing ‘Đạo ông Trần’ (The way of Mr. Trần) many might assume that ‘Trần’ is the name of the founder. In fact, the word carries a different meaning – quietly woven into the daily life of Long Sơn Island’s residents (formerly part of Bà Rịa – Vũng Tàu) for a century.
The village founder and spiritual leader was Mr. Lê Văn Mưu (1855–1935), a figure whom the people of Long Sơn still remember with deep respect. Stories about him continue to resonate through the rhythms of daily life on the island. The image of this man from a century ago seems to linger: wearing a simple bà ba shirt, hair tied in a bun, barefoot on the earth, living by a code of etiquette, behaving with humility, and treating everyone sincerely, whether fellow villagers or visiting guests.
Tracing ‘Đạo Ông Trần’: Discovering the gentle way of life on Long Sơn Island
From compassion to etiquette: A sustainable way of life among the people of Long Sơn
Lê Văn Mưu, widely known as Ông Trần (Mr. Trần) or Ông Nhà Lớn (“Big House” Master), was originally from Kiên Giang and once participated in the anti-French movement led by Ngô Lợi, the spiritual leader of the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa sect.
After Ngô Lợi’s uprising collapsed in 1890, Lê Văn Mưu returned home to live in seclusion. Later, he and his family crossed the sea to Vùng Vằng (formerly Bà Rịa, now part of Ho Chi Minh City) to escape the French colonial pursuit. Living quietly as a salt maker and herbal healer, he gradually drew more people seeking refuge, prompting him to move again to Rạch Dừa (Vũng Tàu, now under Ho Chi Minh City), and eventually pioneering the southeastern part of Long Sơn Island.
From a desolate marshland, Long Sơn gradually transformed into a prosperous community centered on salt production and fishing. When authorities permitted the establishment of a village, Lê Văn Mưu gathered settlers from across the region to cultivate the land, creating a peaceful and thriving rural area.
Lê Văn Mưu and the village of Bà Trao (as it was known) became widely respected throughout the Southwest region for his generosity – opening his rice storehouses to feed the hungry, welcoming the poor to stay, and even providing opportunities for them to start a livelihood. Once life was stable, he also taught literacy and broadened the minds of children and local residents.
Under his guidance, the people of Long Sơn lived in close-knit harmony, supporting one another like fellow “disciples”. This is how the name “Đạo Ông Trần” originated, associated with the image of a bare-headed, barefoot man diligently working through life. Here, the word đạo is not understood as a formal religion with rituals or scriptures, but as a way of life – natural, ethical, and compassionate.
In Đạo Ông Trần, the concept of lễ (etiquette or ritual) refers to the natural harmony in human relationships. This way of life aims for the community’s lasting and complete happiness, allowing individuals to live authentically, freed from rigid customs and harsh prejudices that once weighed heavily upon them.
A simple way of life – ‘Returning’ to peace
Today on Long Sơn, followers of Đạo Ông Trần still uphold the custom of sharing a single coffin. At first, this may seem unusual, yet behind the practice lies a profound humanistic meaning.
The coffin, made of bamboo, painted red, and adorned with golden patterns, serves as the “final garment” for sending Long Sơn residents back to the embrace of Mother Earth. Regardless of wealth, age, or gender, everyone rests in the same coffin. At the cemetery, the body is placed on layers of fabric and mats, then the coffin is returned and kept at the Nhà Lớn (the Main House). This tradition reflects a spirit of equality, dissolving all boundaries of status and age, so that in death, everyone returns in the same coffin.
The farewell rituals on Long Sơn are striking in their simplicity and order. Locals follow the practice of “morning death, evening burial; evening death, morning burial, mourning released at the grave”. All funeral and burial rites are completed within a single day. There are no drums or trumpets, no chanting, no offerings, and no wailing. Graves are uniform in construction, with blank tombstones, no names, no portraits.
For over a century, amid modern life and cultural intersections, the people of Long Sơn have preserved this custom. Perhaps it is because they understand that when one accepts the natural cycle of life and death, one learns to live more lightly. Here, there is no concern over expensive or cheap coffins, no worry about the size of the grave. Everyone is equal in their return, reflecting the teachings of Đạo Ông Trần: live simply, love one another, and let go of meaningless desires.
Thus, the word Trần in Đạo Ông Trần is more than a name; it embodies a way of life: simple, serene, and oriented toward the goodness of human existence.
Nhà Lớn – Preserving tradition in a contemporary rhythm
Stepping onto Long Sơn Island, visitors are immediately struck by the prominent gate reading “Nhà Lớn Long Sơn Historical and Cultural Site”, standing out against the timeless backdrop of the Nhà Lớn complex of Đạo Ông Trần. Covering more than four hectares, the Nhà Lớn itself occupies roughly half the area, consisting of multiple connected buildings designed in the traditional style of Vietnamese communal houses.
Currently, Mrs. Lê Thị Kiềm, affectionately known as Cô Ba Nhà Lớn, is the fourth-generation descendant of Ông Trần and the caretaker of the site. At 80 years old, Cô Ba remains sharp and warm-hearted, embodying the spirit of Long Sơn residents from the past. Observing the sprawling complex, with its interconnected structures over a century old yet impeccably maintained down to every corner, it’s easy to see why Nhà Lớn is classified as a historical site. According to the locals, however, this sense of order and care has existed since the buildings were first constructed.
The Nhà Thánh, dedicated to Confucius, serves as the main hall and was first built in 1910. It was later complemented by structures such as Lầu Trời (Heaven Tower), Lầu Tiên (Immortals’ Tower), Lầu Phật (Buddha Tower), Lầu Cấm (Forbidden Tower), along with the triple-entrance gate, granary, market, and flower gardens. All are constructed from precious woods like Ironwood, rosewood, and ebony, which have aged to a glossy, smooth finish over time. Inside, dozens of altars, incense burners, glass paintings, intricately carved horizontal panels, and a set of Eight Immortals furniture – once used by Emperor Thành Thái at Bạch Dinh – are carefully preserved.
What makes Nhà Lớn truly special is not just its architecture, but the spirit of compassion embodied in Đạo Ông Trần. For over a century, its doors have never been closed to anyone in need. Here, đạo is not a religious faith, but a moral way of life — rooted in Nhân (benevolence), guided by Lễ (etiquette), and lived through Nghĩa (righteousness), Trí (wisdom), and Tín (trustworthiness). Filial devotion to parents, loyalty to fellow villagers, and care for the vulnerable — these form the foundation of life on Long Sơn.
According to Mrs. Kiềm: “All visitors are welcomed with local specialties and may stay overnight. Nhà Lớn hosts guests completely free of charge.” Those who have visited Long Sơn often recall long evenings of conversation, enjoying seafood delicacies while sharing in the simple, warm-hearted stories of the island’s people.
On this small island, đạo is not found in scriptures or rituals, but in everyday life – in the way people treat one another with kindness and compassion. Perhaps this is the fullest meaning of the word Trần: simple, pure, and serene amidst the human world.
Photo: Ta La Cà
